I want to try starting seeds inside this year --vegetable seeds. I have never done it. When it comes to different kinds of containers to start them in: peat pots, peat PODS, reusing nursery cells, or other containers etc., are there pros and cons that I should consider? Are some veggies best started in a certain type? For example, I didn't know that cukes don't like to have their roots disturbed. Are some easier to handle than others? I also have questions about WHEN to plant the seeds indoors. I know that in my area, the last freeze date (32 F) at 90% is March 31st or April 11 for 50/50 chance. Soooo, say I want to start a tomato that says 78 days until harvest.... vs beans that say 55 days.... vs radishes that say 25 days.... What date do I put them in the pot???? And is the "in-the-pot" date different for vegs that need to be planted in the ground AFTER last frost vs early Spring vegs? And while I'm at it... what vegs can I plant directly in the ground? Lettuce, radishes, spinach? How about beans? Or must I start everything inside? I have very little space, btw. Thank you so much for your advice. PS. I understand the hardening off process from reading this and that but any tips about that would be appreciated too. Searching old GS posts, I found one with this link to the Farmer's Almanac. Has a nice table, by US zip code, that says dates for planting different veggies. Helpful, but I would still like to understand the whole # of days thing... http://www.almanac.com/gardeni...ning/p ... code/21122 moderator's note: removed double posting see point 3.6 of usage rules
I really wouldn't pay a whopping lot of attention to the 'Days to Harvest' information. Some seed companies count those days from the day you put the seed in the pot and some count the days from the day you transplant the seedling outside. The best thing to use that number for is to determine whether or not you have a long enough growing season for that veggie to produce a harvest. For instance if a veggie requires 120 days of sun and very warm temps, if your typical growing season doesn't last that long then you probably won't have a successful crop. If your average date of last frost is March 31st, the information on the seeds packets usually says to start the seeds 6-10 weeks prior to that date and the days to harvest isn't part of that count. You could start you veggies now to mid-Feb, if they outgrow their seedling pot before the ground temp has warmed up sufficiently then you transplant them into a larger pot and wait. I noticed that many of my seed packets contained the info for both starting that particular plant indoors or waiting until after the threat of freezing temps has passed....and there were some that only mentioned starting outdoors after the threat of freeze has passed. Veggies that need lots of warm weather, many types of beans, okra, etc should be planted in the ground after the ground temp is warm enough to promote germination. This also applies to flowers like Moonflower vines, they need consistent temps of 70+ degrees to germinate. Specifically what do you plan on growing this year? Since there are some veggies that grow better in your climate than mine, knowing what you want to grow can get you more specific information from other members in climates similar to yours.
Istart my tomatoes about 8 weeks before the last frost date. Here it is may 31. Peppers I may start soon. I have parsley coming up now inside. It doesnt hurt to experiment with seeds. It is very rewarding. b
Thank you both for your advice. I won't think so hard about it all now. just plant 'em and see. Toni, I don't know exactly what I'm going to plant... besides the usual stuff -- tomatoes, lettuce, spinach. I know I want to grow green beans, limas and sugar snaps... some broccoli, okra... eggplant. My space is pretty small so I can't go crazy, just a little of this and that. I've grown these things before in this region, but I usually buy plants at the nursery. This year, trying something new. Also, lots of herbs.
Peppers are really easy to grow if you like them. I only plant about 6 or less and freeze them for all winter. I love pepper in stew tomatoes . If you like zucchini . Just a few seeds make a handsome bush of hthem. barb
Not a pepper fan... but I like zucchini. Enjoyed the yellow squash last year until the powdery mildew. What prevents the mildew? Does milk help (like using mild for black spot on roses?)?
I generally start anything in little peat pots because they are easy to plant when it's time. If they get too big, I stick them in a larger pot until it's time. Last year I started melon, tomatoes, zucchini. Zucchini doesn't like their roots disturbed so I don't use the plastic boxes for them. I plant lettuce, spinach, radish and salad stuff in tubs and cover them if it's going to be cold or frosty. They are cool weather crops and can survive some cold if you cover them. I generally plant beans and cucumbers direct in the ground. I've used grow lights inside to start stuff when I didn't have enough window space for things. Plants are usually forgiving if they don't have the exact soil and temps but need regular watering. Sometimes I have things that don't grow so I plant the whole package and thin them out when they get too big for the space. dooley
Thanks Dooley. I like that idea of the lettuce, spinach and salad stuff in tubs. I have 8 large pots from last year. Herbs and salad could be in the pots.
I love starting plants from seed, and I hope you enjoy it! The other folks are right--once you know your last frost date, then you can work backwards of what to plant when. Tomatoes are 6-8 weeks, peppers I find to be more like 10 weeks...but I also use heat mats for these to give them a boost. Typically, I start my seeds in germinating trays in soilless seed germinating mix--you have less risk of diseases using soilless medium. I like using the trays, because they help retain moisture--and I reuse them over and over, so they don't end up in the landfill. After the seedlings have their first "real" leaves (not seed leaves), I transplant into peat pots. Tomatoes I always plant deep--to the leaves, almost--because they'll develop more roots along the stem to help strengthen the plant. I'll harden them off outside, gradually introducing them to partial sunlight over a week or two, and then transplant out when I know the danger of frost is over. The thing about peat pots is--always tear the top lip of the pot to the soil line before you plant, otherwise the rim will wick moisture away from the roots. Depending on what you want to grow inside, you also want to find out if the plant needs light or dark to germinate. For instance, light helps tomatoes, so you plant the seed very shallowly, and as soon as it germinates, you need to get it under lights so it doesn't get leggy. I usually keep the lights 2" above the plants, using full spectrum bulbs. Lettuce, radishes, peas (soak these in water overnight to speed germination), carrots...many veggies can be direct sown. I just love starting seeds inside this time of year, because I'm itchy to be gardening! Good luck with your growing! Let us know what you end up planting! Julie
