Hello Growingpains--As promised here are my ideas on growing onions. Like with so many other crops, there is more than one way to do it--this is just the way that I do it. I have chosen a "middle of the road" way of explaining it. What I mean by this is that different types of onions are planted in different ways, depending on the sort. What I have written here is my method for growing main crop onions from sets/bulbs. Growing Onions Soil Preparation Onions like being planted in a purely sunny place. They like rich soil that is drains well and is not compact. You can plant them in the normal soil, but they do better in raised beds I have heard. I can see what that is--raised beds are always less moist than the regular ground. You ought to prepare your soil well before the time you plan to plant. November or December would have been ideal; but never, mind it is not too late. The idea is that the manure and compost can "settle" and become a bit weaker so as to not overpower your plants with concentrated nutrients. ** Note that onions prefer a slightly acidic soil. That's why I add the fresh compost. I would add Rhododendron soil as a constituent if it wasn't so expensive. Planting Crush-up any large, hard clods, and remove large bits, like plant stalks or stones. Pat the soil gently to make it firm to plant in. Knowing when to plant onions depends upon the type that you plant to grow. The labels will tell you which month is best for the seeds or starter onion bulbs that you buy, but generally March is the month to plant here, I don't know about Michigan. Choose a sunny and dry day to plant. If the soil clings to a trowel shoved half way into the topsoil it is too moist...just wait a couple of days. There are three ways to plant onion sets/bulbs and I have tried them all: --Press only the root end of the onion just barely into the soil and leave it. 4/5ths of the bulb will be above ground and attractive to curious birds, so cover them with wire 'tents'. --Press the bulb 2/3rds into the soil. The end should be visible and thus, just above the soil level. --Make a shallow drill and press the bulb halfway in then cover the rest of the bulb with the soil at the sides of the drill, so that no onion is showing at all. Once planted, firm the soil around the bulbs once again making it only slightly compact. I would always cover the onions with some sort of wire or gauze to keep the birds from pulling them out. While the birds won't eat them usually, it sets them back 2-3 weeks if you have to re-plant them. The bulbs should be about four inches apart and the rows should be about a foot apart. Growth and Care Personally I feel that onions need to be looked after and checked a little more frequently than say, beets, beans, leeks or parsnips. The main thing that I concern myself with is moisture. You really cannot allow them to become too dry...but you do not want to water them so much that the ground stays soggy. The reasons are that if they stay too moist, then "white rot" (Phanerochaete chyrsosporium) will set in. If you let the soil become too dry while the temps are high then they will 'shoot', and your onion will be spoiled for eating usually. Learning how to correctly monitor and adjust the moisture is an aquired skill, but you have to start somewhere and do the best you can.The folks that garden on the complex that I do often have trouble with shooting onions, when all they had to have done was to have given them a bit of water at the right time and not let them become dry past the point of no return. It seems that once the onion has gotten the signal, it can't be stopped and it produces a bloom stem and that's checkmate, so to speak. **Usually August is the most dangerous month in terms of the drought and 'shooting' scenario. Harvesting --When you see the foliage is turning yellow, press it down with your foot, breaking the leaves so that they lay flat on the soil. --After a couple of weeks or when the foliage has turned brown and crispy use a border fork and loosen the soil around the mature onion. Some people just let them lie on the ground in the garden, but I always put them on crates with wire bottoms so that the wind can blow through. The important factor here is wind. They need this for "curing" before storage. If you leave them on the ground or something solid, then you will need to turn them from time to time to avoid there being small moist places. It may rain on them from time to time when they are curing, but don't worry they will be ok. It doesn't matter how you do it just place them somewhere in the full sun and in open surroundings. --Once they are totally dry then you will need to store them I string mine. See this link: http://www.gardenstew.com/about11490.html You can also remove the dry foliage down to about one finger's width above the onion and then store them is a cool, dark and dry place. You could use cardboard boxes, netting or newspaper. ** Note that some of the larger onions may have thick foliage at the top of the bulb. These can better not be stored away out of sight because they can go bad in spite of your protective measures. It's better to keep them out where you can keep an eye on them. Oké then, this is the way I do it, I hope that you will have success with your onions this year. You know, G'pains, most folks do not have very much of a problem growing onions, but for me it's always a challenge. I am getting better at it each year though.
Thank you so very much This is my first year growing onions and was just going to play it by ear.. with the help of Garden Stew of coarse. Your demonstrations, detail and pictures I think have helped anyone who is looking to grow their own onions. I know it has answered some of my questions I have yet to ask. The onions I have planted this year are already in the ground and seem to me to be doing good so far. When I can get my camera fixed I will take pics of what I have so far but my 2 year old got ahold of our $425 camera and some how it canot detect that I have batteries in it. That being said I will have pics when it gets fixed! P.S. Sjoerd. You said leaving them on a surface may need to be turned regularly so not to get moist spots. I noticed that your onions are all leaning trowed the middle. Is this leaning on each other preventing air that may cause the moist spots and less air flow or is it fine? Thanks again for the very helpful demo :-D
I'm glad that you liked the posting, Newgrow. I hope that it is helpful. About turning the onions: I mean if you choose to leave them on a solid surface like the ground or the wooden bottom of an upside down box or a paving stone. The thing that I laid mine on is a frame with a chicken wire top on it to let the air circulate...but I still turn them all every few days. Once the outer couple of skins turn brown and crispy They are well on their way and do not need turning so often. In that upper foto I have shown how I break the foliage and press it onto the ground. This gives a definate message to the onion that it is time to let it's foliage die. It also insures that the onions will not shoot (or 'bolt' as some say), should there come a hot, dry spell.
I do understand, I was just stating that if onions are leaning on each other that that may impose the question one may have of them laying on the ground. IE. touching each other.. But then you answered that on also as you shake them a time or two a week! You are just so knowledgeable and I/we appreciate you. Thanks again.
great tutorial sjoerd! one thing i do is put a thin piece of newspaper under the onions when i'm drying them. the paaper seems to draw any reserved moisture from the bulbs. since sjoerd posted how to string the onions, i have been doing it that way the last couple years. it's a great technique!
As my onions started growing I take my foot and mash the tops down as the tops grow.The onions produce more juice to raise the tops up as they do this it makes the onions grow larger.In the onion fields they use big rollers to mash them down.
WOW who needs to Google for information when we've got an expert like you to help us out Sjoerd. I'll be showing Ian your post as he's thinking of growing onions this year. :-D
NEWGROW-- Ok then, That's clear then. You know if the weather is good for two weeks and those onions are jostled and turned regularly, they will be ready to store in two weeks easy...but here in Holland, there is so often rain, so I wind up leaving them outside; sometimes for a month, because of the rain. It doesn't matter they cure anyway, it's just that they require more care and turning to aid in the drying but also to keep the earwigs from colonizing. Earwigs are rampant here. It's one reason that I don't grow Dahlias any more. :-? What a great tip, BUNKIE. That's what's so good about the Stew here, one gets all kinds of tips and gems of knowledge when someone inquires about something. There are so many folks with knowledge and it is (for me anyway) always good to hear someone else's take on a given subject. BTW--thank you for mentionining the "onion stringing". I am pretty happy that it works for you and that you still use that. Me too, partly because I just do not have the space to keep them conventionally...and I like having them in "easy access" for cooking. See....GLENDA--There's what I was talking about. You have another tip. I have never heard of mashing them down early in the season. I am definately going to try one row (or a portion of a row) this year and compare them to the rest to see if they get larger and juicier. I LIKE trying new things. Thank you for this idea. Gosh EILEEN. Thanks for those very nice words. I am delighted to hear that Ian will try his hand at onions. I have a feeling that your weather is alot like ours here. Just get him to get that soil in good order. Fingers crossed. Now, naturally we hope that he and you will be posting fotos of your exploits. You know that, right?
I CHEAT wih the onions, start out buying bags of 50 little bulblets (can be found in hardware stores or chain stores with a gardening section..price is minimal) then go from there. In late April (I'm Zone 4) I place 4-5 bulblets in each container where tomatoes will be planted later, placing them close to the edges, only planting deep enough to cover the bulblet, leaving the "dry" top visible: this leaves plenty of room to "scootch" the tomato in later without disturbing the root-forming onions. Other onion bulblets are planted with carrots, beets, cabbages (re: companion planting) or placed in a separate container of their own for "green onions": bury 2-3 inches deep for these, close together so that they're touching, and they will come back the next year if left alone. By fall, the other onions will be fist-sized when harvested, will definately bring a tear to your eye! I've found that for "curing" onions, a mesh-bottomed-type plastic carrying tray is ideal for allowing air circulation around the bulbs, eliminates the need to turn them. Prop up the corners so it's not directly on a flat surface, preferably in a darkish DRY area with good air circulation..and that's it!
Sjoerd, again I thank you for good information. I usually get the onion plants with stems already about 3 inches tall. I sow a few packets of Bunching onion seeds also. When harvesting, I tie a large bunch of onions together and hang them just under the awning where they get fresh air and light, but rain won't hit them. When the stalks die completely and onions begin to fall from the bunch, it's time to store them. Like you said, I use cardboard boxes that have been cut down to about 2 to 3 inches tall. I can see the onions in case any begin to grow sprouts. Some are stored in mesh bags such as those we buy oranges or grapefruit in. If several sprout, we just peel, chop and freeze them. The onions I planted this past Sunday are Sweet Spanish and are supposed to grow quite large. Now I am itching to plant other seeds. Lettuce, spinach, peas, radishes. All plants which like cool weather.
It is very interesting to hear that you get onions to plant that already heve some green leaves on them. I have never seen that. That means that they are well on their way then. That can only be good. I hope those Sweet Spanish onions turn out good for you. They sound like a very good onion for cooking or eating raw. I know you must be itching to get other things planted. Me too. I may plant some Lathyrus tomorrow. I really ought to restrain myself until March. You are welcome for the posting, I hope you were able to use a thing or two. Good luck this season. I hope that you willpost some pics from time to time.
Ok then ...Not to be a pain, but I love onions raw or how ever they come I'll eat them. But my wife only likes then cooked almost till they are mushy. There for I don't use them to offend. So the question is how long will they store and will storing them different ways make them last longer. Thanks!
