What is wrong? My plants are showing yellow!

Discussion in 'Fruit and Veg Gardening' started by newgrow, Mar 18, 2010.

  1. newgrow

    newgrow Seedling

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    A lot of my plants are showing the same thing I just took 3 pics to show you! They are yellow looking and some look like they have dieing holes in the middle of them. Even my herbs. What could this be and how can I fix it?

    This is one of my cucumbers.

    [​IMG]

    This is one of my onions

    [​IMG]

    This is one of my Tomatoes

    [​IMG]
     
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  3. toni

    toni Mistress of Garden Junque Staff Member Moderator Plants Contributor

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    Possibly a Nitrogen deficiency, that will cause leaves to turn yellow since Nitrogen is vital to producing chlorophyll which is what turns the leaves green.

    Get a soil testing kit or check out the sites Sjoerd posted about testing it yourself
    before putting Nitrogen on them. There are other nutrients that a deficiency of will cause yellowing leaves too.
     
  4. newgrow

    newgrow Seedling

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    OK so how do I find out what plants need what kind of PH or are they all about the same? I should go buy one of those PH testers soon. I did not know about that. Can I use pool test kits that use the PH to find PH in soil?
     
  5. gardentoad

    gardentoad Seedling

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    Just go to a garden center and get a soil test kit. A single use one runs about $5 and for $20-$25 you can get a bigger one to test several garden areas. You can have different needs in different beds that are only a few yards apart.

    It's worth it to know exactly what your soil needs because if you guess you can burn your plants or try several different things before you get the right thing that solves the problem.
     



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  6. fish_4_all

    fish_4_all In Flower

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    Did it get really cold there over the last few days? This is what turned everything I put out last year yellow in a matter of 3 days.
     
  7. Sjoerd

    Sjoerd Mighty Oak

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    Hello,

    There are as number of things that can cause leaves to yellow.
    Testing your soil is a good first step. However I don't think that Toni ment to imply that you should test the pH (alone). I believe that she was referring to testing the mineral content/levels, such as nitrogen, potassium, magnesium etc. Testing the pH level is something different--it has to do with the acidity/alkalinity...also important, but probably not related to the yellowing that you are seeing there.

    The first picture--That pattern of yellowing (marginal chlorosis) could well be compatable with low nitrogen levels in your soil. I would also wonder about the hydration there. Has there been lots of rain, or very little the past few days/weeks?
    It appears that the majority of the yellowing is located marginally. There is a thing that can effect curcubids known as "angular leaf spot". It is caused by a bacterium that enters the lead via the pores on the edge of the leaf or the stomata on the underside. I don't feel that this presentation matches exactly enough to be that, but it absolutely is a possible diagnosis that needs to be ruled out.
    Angular Leaf Spot is sort of a worst-case scenario for this plant, but not the most likely cause (percentage-wise).
    Additionally, I was wondering what sort of soil prepping you did in the hole where you planted your cue?

    The second picture-- I would not worry about that onion very much. The little bit of yellowing shown here (of the lowest leaves) could fall within the relm of normal for that plant.
    The first leaves that new plantlets have often die after performing their job--which was to get the plant going and into adulthood. Once that is done these "starter leaves" often die from exhaustion, in a matter of speaking, and then the adult leaves emerge and carry the plant on through to harvest.

    The third foto: This tomato plant looks like my left-over tom plants that I keep in the greenhouse after planting my selected ones. I keep them as back-up plants for a few weeks in case the main plants fail. They often become too dry and suffer from heat which causes this presentation. I am wondering about hydration. Has this plant had alot of water or very little the past couple of weeks?
    As for the spots: they look like pest nibblings. There are some insects that chew through the outer layer of cells on the underside (and topside) of leaves, not going all the way through. It looks like that to me. Things like leafhoppers, aphids and baby snails to name a few.
    These yellow leaves look like they may well be second sets, and could simply be dying. The growing point seems to be producing new leaves, which is what should be happening. If the little leaves in the grow point were yellow as well, I would be worried--but they are not.

    Well, these are a few thoughts. I hope that you can get a handle on the yellowing.
    Chances are that with normal care and time they will simply grow out of it. I don't have a bad feeling about the pictures that you posted here at this point.

    p.s. What is all that white stuff on the soil's surface? Is it sand?
     
  8. Netty

    Netty Chaotic Gardener Plants Contributor

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    My first thought was too much water.
     
  9. newgrow

    newgrow Seedling

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    Well Sjoerd First you are so so knowledgeable. Yes it has rained here a lot. In fact about a week ago we had three days of non stop rain some hard some light.

    you asked "Additionally, I was wondering what sort of soil prepping you did in the hole where you planted your cue? "
    I did none. This is only my second year trying. What I did was use a seed starter in peat pots under big lights in my garage. I used manure and peatmoss and dug that in the soil back in January. Then on March 8th I just dug a hole and planted the plants.Also that white stuff you see by the cucs and toms is a little sand that was already there and is all mixed up with compost, manure, peatmoss, and soil. The other white stuff that is by the onions is a small amount of potting soil that got mixed in there last year when not using my head.
    If it is to much rain will it fix itself? I shall get a test kit hopefully this weekend and will let you know the results. Be prepared they might be horrible.
     
  10. daisybeans

    daisybeans Hardy Maple

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    The cuke reminds me of how my cukes and squash looked last year when we had a tremendous amount of rain over weeks. Unfortunately, they remained sort of weak the whole season...I think the spot they were in didn't drain as well as they would have liked either. I hope yours fare better.
     
  11. toni

    toni Mistress of Garden Junque Staff Member Moderator Plants Contributor

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    Oops, I did link to the wrong post. That's what I get for getting in too big a hurry to get something done.
    I will try to find the links I was looking for about testing for Nitrogen and the other nutrients.

    If you do get one of the test kits that has to be sent to a local college lab, you will also get info on the pH of your soil too and helpful info on how to correct it if it is too far in one direction or the other.
     
  12. fish_4_all

    fish_4_all In Flower

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    Also, did you harden these plants off before putting them out?
     
  13. newgrow

    newgrow Seedling

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    What do you mean did I harden the plants before they went out?

    Thanks Toni. Would it be easier just to take some soil to a nursery rather than go through the hassle of the kit and sending it off?
     
  14. fish_4_all

    fish_4_all In Flower

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    I didn't know if you started them out doors or if they were started inside. If stated inside then some of it could be sunburn damage. I hope I didn't sound rude, I am still learning here and just trying to relay what I have learned. It oculd be what caused my plants to die last year, I didn't harden them off and I lost 95% of everything I transplanted.
     
  15. Sjoerd

    Sjoerd Mighty Oak

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    The type of soil prepping for my cues:
    I dug a hole about one foot deep and in the bottom 1/3 I put very well-rotted compost and peat mixed.
    Between this layer and then next I mixed some stick match heads (you could use phosphorus crumbs or super phosphate if you wish). Cues like phos. and it aids in root development--the better the root system, the better the fruit yield.
    The next layer was well-rotted manure mixed with native soil and abit of bone meal. I sprinkled a bit of blood meal as a side dressing on top of the soil near the plant.
    I made sure that the soil was well-draining and I mulched it with comfrey leaves during droughty periods.

    I grew cues outside and also in my greenhouse and both did well--but I liked the ones grown in the greenhouse better.

    During the season I began feeding mt plants from the moment that I saw the first flower open on the vine...then every two weeks thereafter. I alternated feeding types--comfrey tea, cow manure pellets, a tiny amount of blood meal, nettle tea, manure tea...never using the same food two times in a row. Cucumbers are terrificly hungry plants.

    When you test your soil for mineral levels, take your samples from down in the soil at the level where the plant roots will be--that's where the nutrients get taken up.

    If your problem is too much rain, this ought to correct itself--as I said the small new leaves coming out of the grow point (toms and onions) look healthy to me. Because of your camera's exposure setting (shutter speed), I can't tell for sure about the cucumber plant.
     
  16. newgrow

    newgrow Seedling

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    fish_4_all- No, no I am sorry for coming on that way. I only ment it as a question as I did not know what you were saying. I understand now. I did start them inside only because this was the coldest winter Florida has seen in quit a while. Thank you.

    Sjoerd- Thanks I did not know so much prep went into a hole before planting. I though it was simply dig a hole,plant,fertilize and enjoy! Now it makes more sense that they are way better then store bought veggies. The old saying comes to mind-
    Blood,sweat,and tears!
     

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